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Les Argentières Click on the map
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Starting from Col du Glandon, these two massifs are separated by the deep cleft of Combe de la Croix. The Sambuis range is a mass of rounded summits whereas Aiguilles de l'Argentière are a long crest of pointed rocky peaks, most of which are not accessible to the ordinary walker. Very few paths here, except the well-trodden route to Col de la Croix. The starting points are all fairly high, and most of the routes are short, and allow various combinations. The snow stays late in this area.
Col du Sambuis (traverse)
An easy classic route up to Col de la Croix, a bit more technical further up if you choose to traverse to Col du Sambuis. Two starts: Col du Glandon (1924m) or the bend on the road at map point 1766m under the Col du Glandon on the Maurienne side. From the col, walk towards the Aiguilles (west) and turn right on to a very visible path traversing towards Ravin de la Croix. From the road, the path rises up the grassy slopes under the east summit of Aiguilles de l'Argentière and joins the previous route at a wooden signpost in Ravin de la Croix (shorter, but uphill).
| At the signpost, leave to your right the path to Sambuis (see next) and go up the coomb on the right bank of the stream (a few red marks and numerous cairns). At the end of the lower coomb, veer right and go up between two cliffs to reach a rocky depression. Climb to your right up a steep section that comes out on the lake (2415m,1h45). The views on the surrounding summitswiden considerably. Col de la Croix is the obvious col west of the lake (2529m,2h, 1/4h from the lake). |
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From Col de la Croix you can traverse north towards Col du Sambuis. A narrow path traverses the west side of the steep crags above the col to the north. Then a gully gives access to the ridge itself (2588m, cairn). Go down and up the wide ridge that follows. A rocky gap can be avoided on the right around the rocks and up a steep scree and dirt gully. Grassy boulder-strewn slopes lead to the first summit (cairn). For a better view, go up Pointe 2669m more to the west (easy).
A suspended valley falls gently north-east towards Col du Sambuis. Draw right just before the col (2528m). The north side of Col du Sambuis falls into the Tepey valley.
Descent.
The
most logical descent is via the lake and the ascent route. Going down
directly to Ravin de la Croix is possible but requires
good visibility. From Col du Sambuis, draw left (east) and join
the normal ascent route to Cime du Sambuis above the lower cliffs (see
below).
(Back to the map)
Described below from the wooden signpost at the entrance of Ravin de la Croix, it is an easy walk, with a rather steep final section where the path gives way to a scree slope. From point 1766m, 950m of ascent for 3h. Starting from Col du Glandon takes 150m from the ascent but does not shorten the route. A classic route.
At the signpost, turn right and cross the torrent on two small wooden bridges. Straight in the alignment of the second bridge, locate the first cliffs that border the ravine. That is where the path goes diagonally upward from left to right between a system of granite crags. Walk along the torrent's left bank and veer away from it on nearing the rocks. Should you miss the path, continue at the bottom and follow the stream to Plan des Trois Eaux, a grassy hollow at the foot of a steep grassy ridge to the right. Go up the ridge (easy) and find the path of the classic route on top.
Do not cross the stream that runs down from the Sambuis lake, but walk up its left bank on a fairly good path (numerous cairns) until you reach and climb a small gully to come out on a small plateau at the foot of Sambuis' final scree slopes. The best way is to avoid the scree parts by using the more solid rock shoulders that emerge here and there and the grassy parts near the top. Two cairns at the top: Sambuis is on the right but the highest point is the enormous cairn on the left. Beautiful views all around. Go down the same way or down the steep and grassy north-east face.
Col
de la Combe (2656m) offers a way to cross the Aiguilles de l'Argentière.
From the bottom of Ravin de la Croix, draw left towards the south (pathless) and go up sustained scree slopes where snow remains late in season. Head for a very visible gap between the Petites and Grandes Argentières. Very austere and mineral surroundings. Descending on the Glandon side (south) is an undertaking that is not to be taken lightly. It is very steep (some downclimbing moves) and very exposed to stonefall. Groups are really unreasonable here. After negotiating the difficult initial gully, go down a rather long and unpleasant boulder field to find the easier grass slopes lower down. A path traverses below the grassy mound above Col du Glandon. This is a route for the mountaineer. |
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