| The
Croix
des Têtes Massif
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This range boasts one of the very few official mountain huts in the lower part of the valley. The Bionant hut enjoys a very fine and impressive situation at the foot of the 620m limestone pillars of Les Mamelles de Beaunes (the name comes from the two rounded summits of La Croix des Têtes). There are several modern rock-climbing routes on the two cliffs. The hut is small and can comfortably accomodate only 10-12 visitors. There are mattresses, blankets and some cooking utensils, but no gas and no water. The hut is run by the Maurienne section of the French Alpine Club (BP 19 - 73301 - St Jean de Maurienne). Access is not easy and uses a via ferrata section which requires the use of a sit-harness and slings. Signposts at the start of the two access routes inform whether the via ferrata section is open or closed, that is if the route has been inspected for security after the winter season. Access in "closed" conditions is not recommended (stone fall and potentially damaged security equipment) and done at the climber's own risk. IGN map TOP 25 3435 ET.
The Bionant hut from St Julien (1)
The 2 routes described below are not accessible at the moment (June 2004). The via ferrata giving access to the Bionant hut has not been maintained for years, making the route very dangerous and probably impracticable. The only safe way to reach the Bionant hut, until the old access route has been restored, is via the Pin Brûlé via ferrata, from the top down. Start at the
end of Chemin de la Raie, at the top of Le Claret. There is parking space
for very few cars only. Leave
to your left the trail to Tourmentier and walk past a small EDF building. The
path winds up the lower slopes above Le Claret and, at alt. 1120m plunges
into
the Bionant valley. Very fine views on the cliffs and the difficulties to come.
On reaching alt. 1500m, turn right on to a level traverse path across steep
yellow scree
slopes. The first part of the traverse requires caution (a few cables). The
forbidding cliffs that bar the way further on are negotiated
by
ledges and two very impressive ladder sections (exposure and heights!). At
the end of the cables, turn left, cross the Bionant stream (1567m, last
water point!). The path then twists up very steep slopes (exposed
at places) and finally reaches the hut after 900m of ascent, and 2.30h.
This approach is shorter, but requires a longer drive up the Montdenis and Tourmentier road. 600m after Tourmentier, leave to your left the Essarts forest trail and go up another trail across the remains of the Tourmentier forest, devastated by a storm at the end of the 1980s. The trail goes north, then turns sharply south to reach La Cochette (1603m). Leave the trail to your left and go on to a path that goes down a bit into the Bionant valley, until you reach the start of the level traverse (see above).
Superb and major route, opened in 1991. Except for the first 10m, overhanging and athletic, it is an easy via ferrata that offers sensational views on the limestone pillars very close by and the valley down below, of course. The route goes easily up grassy ledges and short boulder passages all the way, except the start and a short ladder section in the middle. Watch out for rock climbers. The cables stop at the Pin Brûlé, a skeleton of a tree on the Croix des Têtes south ridge. See also the via ferrata pages.RouteTake the level path left (north) of the Bionant hut and walk easily up the forest. When you come out from under the trees, take the time to give an overwhelmed look up at the cliffs and try to spot climbers to appreciate their height. Go up towards the foot of the cliffs, always drawing right towards the bed of a ravine that comes down from the depression at the right or the great pillar. The first metal rungs are 20m right of that gully, you can't miss them. The start is very athletic, but short, then just follow the line of cables that secure the way up to the top (one interruption at the half-way mark). You will pass the starts of a few rock climbs. After a short downclimb on steel rungs into a small gorge and a succession of ledges and gullies, reach the Pin Brûlé (2200m environ). From the hut, 500m of ascent, 2h30. Go down the same route or the Croix des Têtes normal route described below. You can also go all the way up to the summit (see below). Some people abseil down the great pillar but that fine experience is well outside the walker's domain.
(Back to the map)
Normal route from La Planchette
(4 - 5)
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Start left of the Planchette road, 100m before IGN point 1361m. The route has difficult passages and is reserved for experienced walkers, not unused to heights. 1130m of ascent, 3 hours. From the car, follow the path and start an upward traverse through the Beaune forest. It joins the ridge at 1750m and will never stray too far from it. Follow a succession of steep climbs and traverses on a well-trodden path. |
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The view on the rocky spur of the Bec de l'Aigle is impressive. Towards 2000m, set foot in a limestone coomb, then up and finally left to a short rocky gully which comes out on the ridge at the Pin Brûlé passage (dead tree). From the Pin Brûlé climb right towards the summit using a steep limestone gully and path sections. Arrived at the top of the gully, traverse on to an easy but extremely airy ledge (the "tut-tut" ledge). You gain access to a last wide scree gully that climbs towards the summit ridge. Then follows a leftward traverse up limestone slabs (caution) and a grassy ridge. Under the south summit , climb a short grassy gully to the right and reach the top (2492m). Go down the same way. The north summit is very close but decidedly not for the ordinary walker.
Start from La Cochette (see above), reached from St Julien via the Bionant hut access route or Tourmentier (a lot shorter).
Take a forest trail that climbs up north, then turns right and stops near the ridge. The path is not a well-trodden one but never leaves the vicinity of the west ridge of La Pare. Some passages go up very steep grass slopes and require some caution. From the rounded grass summit (2193m), you will have very fine lateral views on the limestone cliffs. The path that goes north from the summit leads to the Col du Bonhomme, but is definitely not recommended in its present state (dangerous and sometimes exposed). The Pic du Génie straight above can be accessed by using extremely steep scree and rock slopes (2510m, difficult). Go down the same way. Descending straight down to the Bionant hut is feasible but difficult and very steep and is not recommended either.