Superb modern route right in the center of the Great Pillar
of Croix des Têtes. Access from Tourmentier or St Julien Montdenis.
Accommodation can be found in the Bionant hut(1700m, CAF Maurienne), not
far from the start of the routes.
To reach the hut, see the mountain
walks section. It is a difficult and long undertaking but there is comparatively
little commitment: the route can be abseiled down (90m rope). Compact rock. The
first half of the route climbs the steep slabs of the lower apron, the last 300m
are vertical and overhanging on the pillar itself.